Rather than the clean white lume of the original, the new model fills its striped baton hands and beveled rectangular indices with faux-patina beige Super-LumiNova. Where the new El Primero Chronomaster Revival A385 diverges from the original is in its use of lume. While the date window at 4:30 may be an element of contention for some enthusiasts, this too is carried over from the original, even including the distinctive notched segment of the tachymeter track to accommodate the cutout.
The simple white of the subdials cuts through the warmth of these tones with cleanly neutral contrast, while the distinctive red central chronograph seconds hand injects the mix with a touch of more vibrant color. The first El Primero A385 had the distinction of being the first fumé dial watch back in 1969, and that smoky brown gradient is rendered here in a grainy procession that seems to capture every color of coffee from café latte at the center to straight dark roast at the edge of the dial. The dial surface itself is a faithful interpretation of the original A385’s standout feature.
The dial of the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Revival A385 makes a few more minor changes to the original 1969 formula than the case, made more in service of capturing the feel of vintage rather than direct recreation.
For better or worse, the water resistance is also a ‘60s throwback as well, with a depth rating of only 50 meters. The only changes from the 1969 original here are the domed sapphire crystal and display caseback. The chamfered edges, narrow rounded bezel, and radial brushed top surface all combine to create a deceptively intricate whole. The overall shape is brutally simple at first, with a flat profile and sharply angled wide lugs, but further inspection brings charisma and charm through Zenith’s attention to detail. This is a case that will likely wear old-school compact on the wrist, but the angular shape and mix of brushed and polished surfaces should give the case its own brand of visual presence. At 37mm in diameter, the stainless steel tonneau case is an exact match for the 1969 original, with no concessions to modern sizing trends. One of the first impressions many wearers will have with the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Revival A385 is its size. Originally slated for a 2020 release, the new Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Revival A385 is a stunningly faithful rebirth for one of Zenith’s most charismatic ‘60s references. Made with the same blueprints and production plans as the 1969 original, this revival of the classic El Primero A385 is more or less exactly the same timepiece that could have been found in a Zenith boutique over 50 years ago. Zenith, however, has taken the opposite route in creating its newest release. Many reissues are more reimaginings than true revivals of vintage pieces, updating design elements and changing proportions to suit more modern sensibilities. While the popularity of vintage sports watch reissues shows no signs of waning in 2021, not all reissue designs are created equal.
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